《名人觀點: Jimmy Chin(金國威) 評高海拔登山商業化》
Jimmy是何許人也?他不只是電影《赤手登峰(Free Solo)》的奧斯卡最佳紀錄片導演,更是一位享譽國際登山界的大人物,曾多次組織攀岩、雙板登山滑雪和開拓性質的遠征,足跡遍布中國大陸、巴基斯坦、尼泊爾、格陵蘭、坦桑尼亞、查德、馬里、南非、婆羅洲、印度、阿根廷等國。
於攝影的愛好上,他拿到了小金人;於登山的愛好上,他曾從聖母峰峰頂一躍而下,成功沿著艱難的南柱路線滑降,他也曾與夥伴在梅魯峰惡名昭彰的鯊魚鰭上開創新路線,兩者皆是世界第一的創舉,其餘成就還遠遠不只如此。
對於大多台灣人來說最意外的一件事,莫過於他華裔的身分吧。但就和林書豪一樣,他是土生土長的美國人。Jimmy的父母為逃離赤化的中國大陸而遷居台灣,再移民美國後才生下他。
上個月,Jimmy在於紐約舉辦的短片首映會上接受訪問,對一系列問題表達了個人觀點,以下只翻譯8,000公尺山峰商業化與聖母峰過度商業化的部分。
-\-\-
訪問者:
萊茵霍爾德‧梅斯納(Reinhold Messner, 義大利傳奇登山家)曾說過,遲早所有的8,000公尺山峰都會有由商業登山隊伍所經營的攀登路線。請問你對這件事的看法,以及聖母峰過度商業化的看法?
Jimmy Chin(金國威):
這跟每個人看事情的角度有關,對吧?畢竟人們對攀登這件事有許多不同的觀念,以及具文化差異的不同標準。我完全理解梅斯納為何會這麼說,因為就是有像他一樣的純粹主義者。
我欣賞這個論點,但你同時需要兩個極端才能定義中間為何,不管它從政治上或文化上來說是否符合攀登的標準。你需要有個能追求的標竿,而純粹主義者就設立了所有人皆渴望達成的一定標準。梅斯納在不同的時代中攀登了所有8,000公尺的山峰,當時因為科技發展和直升機運輸等等的原因,讓後勤與容錯率都十分不同。在幾座8,000公尺的山峰上,他[梅斯納]以無氧方式開創新路線之外,更沒有現在的後勤系統能夠依賴。從這個觀點來看,我們不能忽視攀登風格,而且它對不同人的意義皆不一樣。
我不會評斷想要攀登聖母峰的人們,因為這是十分個人的事情。當你說過度商業化一詞,應該被放大檢視的應該是該國境內的商業嚮導業者與相關規範。未來的事情難以預測,所以他們總是在嘗試趕上時局的變化,對吧?嚮導服務對於何時進、何時退有著很多思考方式,沒有一定的對錯。
現在的8,000公尺山峰比以往更加容易登上,所以就會有更多的人登上。至於一位報了8,000公尺山峰的商業行程客戶,跟一位在登山上付出甚多,追求純粹風格的老鳥,他們所獲得的體驗是一樣的嗎?他們都在那兒,但他們的本質並不相同。
-\-\-
〈我的短評〉
8,000公尺山峰的登山商業化已勢不可擋,像是Jimmy這種身兼公眾人物的中生代登山家(46歲)自然心裡清楚,所以多半是抱持著理解帶著一絲絲批判的態度。然而在梅斯納(75歲)活躍的喜馬拉雅登山時期(1970-1989),正是首登被逐一完成後競逐新路線、新紀錄的熱血篇章,講究冒險與獨立精神,所以想當然耳對無聊的商業登山沒半句好話 (加上他自己也是個大砲嘴😅)。
但他和許多古今中外登山家所呼吸的傳統極限登山精神,也就是客觀上的開創性,依然是個不變標竿──或者說,在全面商業化的時代中,天平上益發遙遠上翹的彼端。
Jimmy這一種菁英登山者曾游上未知的彼岸,他明白這是什麼;但回頭看時下的登山環境,當名為未知的大江有了橫跨兩端的航線、隧道與橋梁,又有誰會選擇游過去呢?只對於個人有意義的未知,還算得上是冒險犯難嗎?這些都是值得我們思考的事情。
就如同他所說,我們都過了河,我們都站在了頂峰,但從選擇的方式卻能看出來構成一人靈魂的材質。
回首台灣,這個世界共同的登山圈議題,倒也沒離我們這麼遙遠呢。
-\-\-\-\-\-\-
原文節錄:
Clash: Reinhold Messner once told me it’s just a matter of time before all of the 8,000-meter peaks have commercially guided pistes, or routes. Your thoughts on that, and on the over-commercialization of Mt. Everest?
Today In: Lifestyle
Chin: It really depends on your point of view, right? There are so many different ideas and culturally different sets of standards that people put on climbing. I totally get where Reinhold Messner is coming from, because there are the purists like him. I appreciate that viewpoint. But you need both extremes to define the middle, whether it’s politically or culturally within the standards of climbing. You have to have a bar to aspire to. The purists set a certain standard that everybody can aspire to. Reinhold climbed all 8,000-meter peaks in a different era. The logistics were different, the safety margins were different because of technology and helicopter access and all of that. On several of those 8,000-meter peaks, he found new routes, all without oxygen, and all without the same logistical foundations that are in place now. In that sense, style matters. And it matters in varying degrees to different people.
I don’t judge people who want to climb Everest, because it’s personal. When you say over-commercialization, it’s really the guide services and regulation from countries the mountains are in that need to be looked at, how to be managed. It’s hard to anticipate, so they’re always trying to catch up to what’s happening, right? There are a lot of different philosophies within the guide services about when it’s appropriate to take people up, and when it’s not. There are shades of grey there. 8,000 meters is so much more accessible these days, so a lot more people are going to be up there. Is it the same experience as when a commercial client signs up to climb an 8,000-meter peak as a longtime climber who has paid his dues and does the climb in more of a purist style? They are all putting themselves out there, but they are different crafts.
-\-\-\-\-
Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for PANERAI
chin up standards 在 城市山人 Mountain Urbanite Facebook 的精選貼文
《名人觀點: Jimmy Chin(金國威) 評高海拔登山商業化》
Jimmy是何許人也?他不只是電影《赤手登峰(Free Solo)》的奧斯卡最佳紀錄片導演,更是一位享譽國際登山界的大人物,曾多次組織攀岩、雙板登山滑雪和開拓性質的遠征,足跡遍布中國大陸、巴基斯坦、尼泊爾、格陵蘭、坦桑尼亞、查德、馬里、南非、婆羅洲、印度、阿根廷等國。
於攝影的愛好上,他拿到了小金人;於登山的愛好上,他曾從聖母峰峰頂一躍而下,成功沿著艱難的南柱路線滑降,他也曾與夥伴在梅魯峰惡名昭彰的鯊魚鰭上開創新路線,兩者皆是世界第一的創舉,其餘成就還遠遠不只如此。
對於大多台灣人來說最意外的一件事,莫過於他華裔的身分吧。但就和林書豪一樣,他是土生土長的美國人。Jimmy的父母為逃離赤化的中國大陸而遷居台灣,再移民美國後才生下他。
上個月,Jimmy在於紐約舉辦的短片首映會上接受訪問,對一系列問題表達了個人觀點,以下只翻譯8,000公尺山峰商業化與聖母峰過度商業化的部分。
---
訪問者:
萊茵霍爾德‧梅斯納(Reinhold Messner, 義大利傳奇登山家)曾說過,遲早所有的8,000公尺山峰都會有由商業登山隊伍所經營的攀登路線。請問你對這件事的看法,以及聖母峰過度商業化的看法?
Jimmy Chin(金國威):
這跟每個人看事情的角度有關,對吧?畢竟人們對攀登這件事有許多不同的觀念,以及具文化差異的不同標準。我完全理解梅斯納為何會這麼說,因為就是有像他一樣的純粹主義者。
我欣賞這個論點,但你同時需要兩個極端才能定義中間為何,不管它從政治上或文化上來說是否符合攀登的標準。你需要有個能追求的標竿,而純粹主義者就設立了所有人皆渴望達成的一定標準。梅斯納在不同的時代中攀登了所有8,000公尺的山峰,當時因為科技發展和直升機運輸等等的原因,讓後勤與容錯率都十分不同。在幾座8,000公尺的山峰上,他[梅斯納]以無氧方式開創新路線之外,更沒有現在的後勤系統能夠依賴。從這個觀點來看,我們不能忽視攀登風格,而且它對不同人的意義皆不一樣。
我不會評斷想要攀登聖母峰的人們,因為這是十分個人的事情。當你說過度商業化一詞,應該被放大檢視的應該是該國境內的商業嚮導業者與相關規範。未來的事情難以預測,所以他們總是在嘗試趕上時局的變化,對吧?嚮導服務對於何時進、何時退有著很多思考方式,沒有一定的對錯。
現在的8,000公尺山峰比以往更加容易登上,所以就會有更多的人登上。至於一位報了8,000公尺山峰的商業行程客戶,跟一位在登山上付出甚多,追求純粹風格的老鳥,他們所獲得的體驗是一樣的嗎?他們都在那兒,但他們的本質並不相同。
---
〈我的短評〉
8,000公尺山峰的登山商業化已勢不可擋,像是Jimmy這種身兼公眾人物的中生代登山家(46歲)自然心裡清楚,所以多半是抱持著理解帶著一絲絲批判的態度。然而在梅斯納(75歲)活躍的喜馬拉雅登山時期(1970-1989),正是首登被逐一完成後競逐新路線、新紀錄的熱血篇章,講究冒險與獨立精神,所以想當然耳對無聊的商業登山沒半句好話 (加上他自己也是個大砲嘴😅)。
但他和許多古今中外登山家所呼吸的傳統極限登山精神,也就是客觀上的開創性,依然是個不變標竿──或者說,在全面商業化的時代中,天平上益發遙遠上翹的彼端。
Jimmy這一種菁英登山者曾游上未知的彼岸,他明白這是什麼;但回頭看時下的登山環境,當名為未知的大江有了橫跨兩端的航線、隧道與橋梁,又有誰會選擇游過去呢?只對於個人有意義的未知,還算得上是冒險犯難嗎?這些都是值得我們思考的事情。
就如同他所說,我們都過了河,我們都站在了頂峰,但從選擇的方式卻能看出來構成一人靈魂的材質。
回首台灣,這個世界共同的登山圈議題,倒也沒離我們這麼遙遠呢。
-------
原文節錄:
Clash: Reinhold Messner once told me it’s just a matter of time before all of the 8,000-meter peaks have commercially guided pistes, or routes. Your thoughts on that, and on the over-commercialization of Mt. Everest?
Today In: Lifestyle
Chin: It really depends on your point of view, right? There are so many different ideas and culturally different sets of standards that people put on climbing. I totally get where Reinhold Messner is coming from, because there are the purists like him. I appreciate that viewpoint. But you need both extremes to define the middle, whether it’s politically or culturally within the standards of climbing. You have to have a bar to aspire to. The purists set a certain standard that everybody can aspire to. Reinhold climbed all 8,000-meter peaks in a different era. The logistics were different, the safety margins were different because of technology and helicopter access and all of that. On several of those 8,000-meter peaks, he found new routes, all without oxygen, and all without the same logistical foundations that are in place now. In that sense, style matters. And it matters in varying degrees to different people.
I don’t judge people who want to climb Everest, because it’s personal. When you say over-commercialization, it’s really the guide services and regulation from countries the mountains are in that need to be looked at, how to be managed. It’s hard to anticipate, so they’re always trying to catch up to what’s happening, right? There are a lot of different philosophies within the guide services about when it’s appropriate to take people up, and when it’s not. There are shades of grey there. 8,000 meters is so much more accessible these days, so a lot more people are going to be up there. Is it the same experience as when a commercial client signs up to climb an 8,000-meter peak as a longtime climber who has paid his dues and does the climb in more of a purist style? They are all putting themselves out there, but they are different crafts.
-----
Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for PANERAI
chin up standards 在 陳到 Do Chan Facebook 的最佳貼文
【香 港 文 化 前 景 研 究】籌款
第一階段計劃籌款:香港普選制度研究與社會文化影響
普選需要推動,更需要研究。北京和香港特區政府為了安定社會,恢復信心,普選是唯一的方法;美國為了保證香港法治及國際社會在香港的安全,也制訂《香港人權及民主法案2019》促成香港普選。香港普選很快到來,之前很多政黨政客爭取普選,但民主普選涉及的制度建設和社會基礎,大家並無妥善研究。香港的社會創新和文化創意,以及一連串的社會信心增強、消費行為轉變而帶來的繁榮和文化輸出,也會因普選而帶動,我們見到台灣和南韓的強勁例子就知道。
香港普選的話,立法會起碼要做以下準備:
一、修訂議會規則及法例:取消功能組別,要有一系列的法例變動的準備。
二、制訂政黨法:促進新生政黨可以註冊公司或社團,可以在銀行開戶,而不會遭受被公司註冊處及銀行取締(香港眾志也遇到阻礙)。
三、研究選區重整:五大選區是否要改變,或者只是劃分香港九龍新界三大選區而在當選之後才分配地區服務辦公室,甚至統一香港為單一選區?
四、社會基礎建設:開放電視台、電台牌照及報攤牌照,令小黨及多元政治取向可以得到宣傳,令香港社會更開放。
五、傳統及主流文化維護:在政黨競爭的時候,有什麼制度可以保障中西傳統文化在香港得到傳承?
此外,美國介入香港政治,也要研究美國和香港的長期文化聯繫。《香港城邦論》出版近十年,也要促成英譯本面世(其中包括香港本土運動里程碑的記錄)。這是第二個和第三個要開展的研究項目。
圖中所見,是第一階段的政策和文化研究的項目,需要各位捐款推動。籌款足夠之後,會依照學術規格,成立研究督導委員會,招聘研究員(培養青年研究人才)及支付行政及辦公室費用。
研究報告會在中期的時候匯報,完成之後會上載網頁,期間會外出訪問及出國研究及探訪,例如研究美國文化影響的時候會走訪美國。
捐款方法:銀行轉帳 / 櫃員機轉帳 / 網上過數
公司帳號:恒生銀行
戶口名:文化工作坊有限公司 Culture Workshop Ltd
戶口號碼:364-314971-883
paypal: culturehk@apspace.hk
如需要收據,請將個人資料及聯絡方法連同付款入數紙,以電郵方式聯絡香港自治行動,統一由HKAA的電郵接收收據。亦歡迎電郵垂詢。
捐款可以列明贊助的項目,可以超過一項。如果某項目的贊助超額,將依照時序先後,將餘款撥予隨後的研究項目。
HKAA 電郵地址:hkautonomyaction@gmail.com
研究總監:陳雲博士
[Research for Hong Kong’s Cultural Prospect] - Fundraiser for the First Stage
Universal suffrage not only requires advocacy, but also research. To stabilize Hong Kong society and restore its confidence, Beijing and the HKSAR Government are set to pursue universal suffrage, as the US passed the Hong Kong Human Rights and Democracy Act to secure rule of law and the safety of the international society in Hong Kong. The universal suffrage that many politicians had fought for in the past will soon arrive, but its crucial systematic construction and social foundation had never been properly studied. Universal suffrage will drive Hong Kong’s social and cultural innovations, as prosperity and cultural exportation come with greater confidence in society and changing consumption habits, just as Taiwan and South Korea once flourished.
Below are the basic preparations for the LegCo, once universal suffrage comes into effect in Hong Kong:
1. Amend rules of procedure and laws accordingly: eliminate functional constituencies and prepare for a series of alterations in laws.
2. Enact Political Parties Act: encourage newly founded parties to register as companies or societies, while allowing them to open up bank accounts without being suppressed by banks and the Companies Registry.
3. Consider re-assignment of election districts: are the five districts adequate? Should there be only three larger districts, namely Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and New Territories, where district offices will be distributed after all legislators are elected? Should Hong Kong be just a single district?
4. Social infrastructures: make licenses of TV channels, radio stations, and newsstands publically accessible, creating an open society that allow minor political parties and political stands to promote themselves.
5. Conservation of traditional and mainstream culture: what kind of institution can safeguard the heritage of both Chinese and Western traditions in Hong Kong, amidst the competition of political parties?
Furthermore, as the US intervenes in Hong Kong’s politics, the long-term cultural relation of the two should be studied. After a decade of its publication, 香港城邦論 should finally be translated into English, which shall include the evolution of Localism in Hong Kong. These will respectively be the second and third research projects.
The picture below shows the first stage of the research which consists of the study of policy and culture. Your donations are critical for the project’s inauguration. Once there are sufficient donations, a supervision committee for the research that complies to strict academic standards will be established. Part of the donations will be contributed towards the recruitment of researchers (which would cultivate young talents), administrative expenses, and office rental.
A midterm report for the research will be available on a designated website. During the course of studying about the influence of American culture, there will be expeditions to the US, as for studying other countries.
Donations are accepted through bank transfers, ATM transfers or online transfers.
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Account no.: 364-314971-883
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Donations can be dedicated to one or more specific projects. If there are exceeding donations, the remaining balance will be chronologically distributed to future research projects.
HKAA’s email:hkautonomyaction@gmail.com
Director of Research:Dr. Horace Chin