開往西方的列車 Train to the west
入境烏茲別克的第一晚並沒有在青年旅館住宿，而是直接搭上了一路向西的臥鋪夜車，直奔遠在烏國西部的絲路古鎮希瓦（Khiva）。烏茲別克在地圖上看起來不大，搭個火車從東到西卻也要15小時的車程，如此長距離的移動選擇臥鋪夜車再適合不過——既不浪費白天時間又省下一夜的住宿費。
一上車，時光彷彿倒回了50年，車內的木質裝潢已經顯得相當有年紀，油漆表面也已經有些斑駁，更神奇的是走道旁邊竟然還有著燒煤的熱水爐。三等車廂稍微有些擁擠，裡面的乘客多是老人和小孩，在沒有空調的悶熱空間裡等著火車開動送來涼風。我睡在下鋪，而上舖睡的正好是兩個年紀相仿的烏茲別克青年，其中一人英文還算流利，長輩緣也莫名的好，在他的幫助下我很快就和身邊的老人家們有了互動。
Instead of staying at a hostel, I slept on an overnight train on my first night in Uzbekistan. This country doesn't look big on the map, but a train ride from Tashkent to the ancient Silk Road city Khiva still takes 15 hours, and overnight train is the best option to save daytime and hotel expenses.
The train itself is like a world from 50 years ago. The wooden and painted interior look aged. More surprisingly, the hot water barrel in the car was fueled by coal! Most passengers were seniors or children, waiting in the hot and stuffy car for the train to move and bring in breezes. My up-berth neighbor happened to be two Uzbek young men, and one of them spoke decent English. With his help I was able to interact with other people on the train.
原本以為火車開動之後，大家會早早鋪好床然後馬上就寢，沒想到真正的「夜生活」才剛要開始。首先是對面的老奶奶，開始從身上的大包小包裡拿出了囊餅、水煮蛋、小黃瓜與番茄，接著上舖的年輕人隨即掏出了兩大盒烤牛肉，並且從那個燒煤的熱水爐那邊拿來了熱水泡茶，我也拿出了上車前在超市買的麵包。這些食物擺滿了整個桌子，臥鋪瞬間變成了一場筵席。
車裡的對話當然都是烏茲別克語，我大部分時間也就是和大家分享著食物，努力從這個第一次接觸的語言裡抓出一些規則或韻律，偶爾通過懂英文的年輕人和其他老人有點互動。他們問我，你一個人旅行嗎？我說是的；接著他們又問，沒有人幫你翻譯？我說沒有，他們露出欽佩的眼神。
接著他們又開始說要來交換護照（烏茲別克似乎有規定即使本國人使搭國內火車也要帶著護照）。他們看著我護照上蓋著世界各國的入境章覺得新奇，我則看著對面老奶奶的烏茲別克護照，想像當年她的護照從蘇聯被換成烏茲別克時的光景。
What happened afterward was totally unexpected - instead of quickly falling asleep, people started taking food out and share with others. The old lady in the opposite berth took out bread, eggs, cucumbers and tomatoes, and the young men up-berth brought out two boxes full of grilled steak. They also brought hot water from the coal-fueled barrel mentioned earlier to make tea. I shared the bread I bought before broading as well. Suddenly the sleeper car was returned into a feast!
All the conversation was in Uzbek, which I didn't understand, but I tried to listen carefully and see if I can catch some patterns from this unfamiliar language. They occasionally brought me into the conversation with the help of the English speaking young man. They asked me, are you traveling alone? I said yes, and they followed, no translator with you? I answered no. They were amazed.
Afterward they exchanged their passport with me. (It seems like even Uzbek citizens have to travel with their passport in hand.) They were fascinated by the number of countries I've been to, and I stared at an old lady's Uzbek passport, imaging the day when it replaced her Soviet Union passport.
素未謀面的幾個人，在火車上透過食物很快就打成一片，兩位年輕人還拿出了事先早就準備好了的伏特加，似乎一直在等待氣氛對的時候拿出來。他們用力的向我推銷，我自知酒量不好，堅持只喝一兩口，他們也很貼心的先幫我倒好了一杯可樂，讓我喝完伏特加之後解解辣。
或許是因為時差和酒精的雙重作用，還不到十點，雖然我仍在努力地從烏茲別克與的對話中尋找規律，眼皮卻幾乎已經闔上；他們大概也看出我是真的累了，很體貼的讓我先睡了。火車相當平穩，規律的搖晃彷彿像搖籃一般有助於入眠，我在烏茲別克的第一個晚上竟然就這樣睡好睡滿了八個小時。
隔天早上醒來，火車在一望無際的不毛之地繼續奔馳著；昨天一起開趴的鄰居們也一一起來，昨夜的剩菜便順理成章的成了早餐；此時的車上除了乘客，還多了來回穿梭的小販，賣的東西無奇不有，從食物、衣服、玩具到飾品無所不包。
這趟意外豐盛（無論是就食物或是人際互動而言）的火車旅程，挽回了我前一天在塔什干留下不太好的印象——原來火車可以不只是交通工具或住宿場所，還可以是和當地人交流認識的地方；我心裡也默默決定，接下來旅程中還有16個要睡火車的晚上，我一定會在上車前準備好食物，用它們還和身邊的鄰居們搏感情。
Strangers got along quickly on the train. The two young men then brought out one bottle of vodka - I guess they'd been waiting for a right timing to do that. Although not a alcohol person, I compromised and agreed to take a little. They seemed to understand that, and were kind enough to prepare a full cup of coke on the side, to let me alleviate the spiciness after taking the vodka.
While still striving to learn something from their Uzbek conversation, jet lag in combination with the alcohol made me really sleepy prior to 10pm. They understood that and let me sleep while everyone else was still having fun. The train was very smooth, and its slight movements helped my sleep. I got a wonderful 8-hour uninterrupted sleep on the train!
The feast continued next morning with the leftover from the previous night. The train was still running in an uninhabited desert. What's different during the daytime is, many vendors went back and forth between cars, selling various items from food, clothes, toys to apparels.
This train trip made my time in Uzbekistan (even before getting to any destination) - train here is more than a vehicle or a lodge. It's a good place to build friendships with locals. There are still another 16 overnight train rides on my trip, and I now know what to do: I will always get food before boarding, and make friends with the food.
many 可以 裝 菜 籃 嗎 在 [新車] 阿母想換車- 看板biker - 批踢踢實業坊 的推薦與評價
《是否已閱讀置底文章『[新車] 2012主流車種比較』》
Yes
《是否至車行看過實車》
有些沒有
《欲比較之品牌及車種》
(1) GTR
(2) RAY
(3) GT 125
(4) BON 125
(5)
《車主需求》 ←請儘量詳細列舉以方便板友幫您建議
至少要有前碟，前後碟的話還要看阿母習不習慣
車子要黑灰白配色，因為要配她的安全帽
裝籃子不會擋到大燈，所以大燈要在龍頭
買菜車，車廂要大
能雙腳平放為主
立中柱輕鬆好立
（以一個50歲的媽媽來說）
V2、勁風光、風光、CUXI這類外型不帥氣的她不喜歡
另外我考慮有ABS的車種，比較安全
可是有ABS的我阿母都不是很喜歡....
前置油箱
《預算範圍》
沒有限制，反正幾個小孩要出
《補充說明》
阿母目前坐騎是小50，前後鼓煞
因為幫她換了一頂超帥氣（她自己說的）XR1100
所以她想順便換車配全罩
（其實根本是我妹買來自己想戴結果我媽說很帥她想要）
BTW，阿母其實有點考慮黃牌，類似T媽那種
農曆年前已考過大重駕照，
我會順便去SUPER BIKE版問問看有沒有適合她的黃牌
阿母平常出入開車為主
去市場買菜或附近買飲料才騎機車
但是家裡妹妹購入NEX和RAY之後
發現阿母喜歡騎車在濱海公路兜風
所以決定今年生日幫她換一台機車讓她當追風阿桑
《目前已考慮過的名單》
FT、RACING、RK、TIGRA、鵝、JET POWER
→我們小孩怕阿母牽起來太重
V2、勁風光、風光→阿母說不帥
CUXI、MANY、COIN、TINY、J BUBU、MII→阿母說不帥
VJR、GP、NEX、GSR、G6、RX、Z1
→阿母的腳沒辦法踏平，但她本人表示還能接受
CANDY、風、CIAO、JOG SWEET→阿母說有點不帥但還算能接受
大B→阿母說醜死了
宏佳藤→阿母說小牌子不考慮
--
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其實我覺得我媽怪怪的不太正常
不像一般的阿母....
嗯嗯阿母也很滿意RAY
輕巧 車廂大 裝籃子也不會擋到大燈
300I嗎？
阿母是對於那種型的都還能接受
考慮帶她去有實車的店借牽車看看
如果HOLD的住就去SUPER BIKE版發文問問看大家
只怕被酸三寶啊....
太重是我們小孩自己覺得啦
阿母當看護，有辦法把近百公斤的病人從病床抱到輪椅
她自己覺得騎黃牌應該沒問題
當然我們會請阿母去牽牽看實車再決定是否購入
對喔還有BON
對...所以才會讓我媽考慮黃牌 = =
沒辦法現有ABS速可達都不是我阿母的菜QQ
我媽也蠻喜歡的覺得中柱很好立而且車身蠻輕巧
我媽說這個牌子很少看到不太想買
然後周杰倫很醜 = =
覺得有點招搖XDDDDD
我媽是想跑跑看86快速道路，她覺得很酷
是不急，慢慢看慢慢考慮
因為還真的有點擔心阿母無法駕馭車子的重量
反正她平常也是把敞篷開著在濱海兜風
家裡有個追風阿桑其實蠻麻煩的....
CC數這麼大...得謹慎考慮.....
其實我媽已經把銀色NEX和黑、灰GSR的網頁加入她電腦的最愛了
只是她對於常常立中柱會踩到踩發桿覺得很煩 = =
謝謝兩位讚賞XD
好厲害喔!!
因為老實說，連車主本人都會常常踩到踩發桿...
忘了說，阿母堅持要前置油箱
我誤會了XDDDD
我媽聽到這個消息有點開心可以直上紅屁股......
忘了說，阿母堅持要前置油箱
OKOK!!列入名單之中!!感謝雪衣大!!
其實我媽不是阿姆啦是阿母
RAY的加速性真的不錯!!
你說的是姆姆報報那個吧XD
差不多，
你曾經看過一台灰色Z4開著敞篷在濱海公路胚車嗎？
車上的阿桑還戴著墨鏡然後開著重低音動資動資的
（她真的去改重低音）
重點，這麼帥氣的畫面
她竟然戴袖套，還白色、有蕾絲花邊....
想騎快速道路去別地方的市場買菜吧XD
這樣好像也不錯，明天問問看我媽的想法
她現在就戴秀一戴很爽了囧
還順便跟左鄰右舍推廣全罩...
但是她還要裝籃子啊XD
而且還有一個不算小的車廂
聽說在大重還沒開放的那個年代我媽有弄來一台重機騎過
不過口說無憑....
是啊是啊，阿母說前置油箱比較不會老化之後進水
大概是以前JOG那類車子的印象吧
※ 編輯: BEEHONEY (122.118.109.224), 02/27/2015 01:23:32
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