菲斯、梅克尼斯:在古城裡玩「馬力歐」和「威利在哪裡」
Fes & Meknes: playing Mario and Where's Wally in old cities
(This post is in both Mandarin and English)
菲斯是撒哈拉三日遊的終點站,我們到達的時間大約是下午六點,正值車水馬龍、交通混亂之際。在老城入口下了車,和兩個團裡認識的日本朋友開始尋找藏在古城深處小巷內的旅店。老城(Medina)是摩洛哥旅遊的最大特色之一,錯綜複雜、左彎右拐如迷宮般的街道,每轉一個彎都可能有個新的驚喜,在裡面迷路是旅遊指南推薦的樂趣之一。
我們三人剛走進古城的時候還有說有笑,但不到五分鐘之後就一點也笑不出來了——一整天的車程令人疲憊,還得帶著幾個大的硬殼行李箱在石板路面上上下下,三個人簡直成了電腦遊戲裡的馬力歐;谷歌地圖顯示直線距離600公尺,我們卻得在迷宮般的城裡移動超過1公里;天色越來越黑,城裡到處都是不懷好意的當地青少年,不斷的跟我們說「這條路是錯的!」、「那裡什麼都沒有!」,但我非常清楚他們的目的——故意讓我們覺得自己迷路,以便藉帶路為由向我們伸手要錢。印象最深刻的是,即使到了地圖的顯示目的地前20公尺,身邊的小屁孩仍然在試圖錯亂我們;由於谷歌地圖在這裡也不準確,我對於是否走對路也沒有十分把握。
直到20公尺後,我們鑽入一條僅容一人的小巷裡,在一個斑駁的木門旁看到了不起眼的旅店標示,當下三人感覺有如絕處逢生,終於得救了!那一刻我也理解到,在摩洛哥的老城裡,寧可跟著不準確的谷歌地圖走錯路再繞回來,也不要相信任何一個小屁孩的話!
We ended the 3-day Sahara tour in Fes, another popular tourist destination. It was around 6pm, and our goal was to find our hotels in the maze-like old city, or "medina". Medina refers to the oldest part of a city encircled by walls. It's usually full of narrow, crooked streets and very hard to navigate. "Getting lost in medinas" has been promoted by travel websites as one of the top funs in Morocco.
I entered the old city with two friends I met in the tour group. We took it easy in the beginning, but soon realized it's not as simple as we thought. While Google Maps said the direct distance is 600 meters, we had to navigate through more than 1-km of poorly mapped streets in the medina. It was getting dark, and we had to carry luggages up and down as the streets ascended and descended. It was just like playing the Mario game. What's even worse is, deep in the medina, many local teenagers tried to bewilder us. All the way we heard shouts like "it's closed!" "Nothing is there!" "Wrong way!" I knew what was on their minds -- they wanted to make us feel lost and then pay them money for showing us the right way. Particularly, when we were just 20 meters from the destination shown on the map, the kids were still interfering us. To be honest, at that moment I wasn't 100% sure either, as Google Maps are not very accurate in medinas.
The anxiety continued until we turned into a <1 meter wide side alley and found the hotel name by an aged and rugged wooden door. It was a triumph for us! And we also learned an important lesson: it's better to follow your maps and get lost, than to trust in any kid in the medina. All they want is your money.
我對菲斯的第一印象應該是來自小學時候讀的某份兒童刊物,上面介紹了一個如魔幻世界的地方,一座古城裡有數十個比人還大的大染缸,裡面裝著各種不同顏色的染料,無數工人們穿梭其間,把處理好的皮革拿進來染色、染好的再送去加工,整個壯觀的畫面非常有《威利在哪裡》的感覺。在菲斯的第二天,我竟然有幸成為威利本人,親自走入小時候讀到的畫面之中。
皮革廠附近的許多住家都把屋頂改成觀景台兼賣店,每天讓數以千計的遊客進來眺望皮革廠順便貢獻當地經濟。我因為不想被強索高額費用,刻意先向路邊雜貨店的阿伯打聽行情,意外得知其實是可以走到染缸旁邊近距離觀看的(或者你想要整個人跳進去染應該也不會有人去阻止啦),我馬上決定不能放過這個大好的機會,於是就成為現場唯一一個不懼皮革臭味直接走到染缸旁邊的遊客(強烈懷疑在觀景台上拍照的遊客都想著:你這死觀光客,快還給我乾淨的畫面啊XD)。
走在大染缸旁邊是什麼感覺?氣味不像我想像的那麼難以忍受,但那種長時間直接暴露在各種染料、染劑、鳥糞(除毛用),比台灣的傳統魚市場更加紊亂的惡劣工作環境讓人印象深刻,那是站在觀景台上很難體會到的。
My first impression on Fes came from a children magazine, where I saw a photo in which numerous leather workers were over dozens of connected dying tanks. The tanks were full of different colors, and the workers were busy bringing in leathers to dye and taking out semi products. The scene made me think of the children book series Where's Wally. I'd never imagine that one day I'd become Wally and walk into the photo myself!
Residents around the tannery have converted their roofs into overlooks and gift shops, where thousands of visitors would take pictures from. To avoid unnecessary expenses, I made friend with a nearby vendor and asked him the best way to get in. He told me that if I won't mind the smell, I can actually go into the tannery and walk by the tanks, and so I did. I was the only tourist there who did that (which means I may have intrude some other visitors' photos, haha).
How was it like to look at the tanks and the workers closely? The smell doesn't bother me much. Exposure to all the materials, liquids and even pigeon poop (used to remove hairs from animal skin), however, made me realize how deleterious the work environment could be. That's something I'd never experienced by watching from the overlooks.
同日下午離開菲斯,搭摩洛哥國鐵(ONCF)前往下一個城市梅克尼斯。在火車站意外結識了一位當地大學生,他是摩洛哥境內第一位找我主動攀談而且不是為了要錢的在地人,英文相當流利。由於他家就住在梅克尼斯,熟門熟路的他就成了我的地陪,甚至收留了因為預定的旅店客滿而必須另覓地方過夜的我。他的出現,成功扭轉了我之前幾天「摩洛哥人就只想騙錢」的刻板印象。
旅行有時候很有趣,你對一個地方的印象,有時會因為一件不順心的事情而不堪回首,有時又會因為遇到一個好人而回味再三。這位摩洛哥大學生的出現真的是為他的國家神救援啊XD
As I left Fes and headed toward the next city Meknes, I met a local college student at the station. He is the first Moroccan who talked to me not for money. Since he is from Meknes, he became my local guide there. Not only that, he was hospitable enough to provide me accommodation when I realized my hotel reservation that night was cancelled without notice. His hospitality successfully overwrote the negative impression I got about Morocco, and made me Iike this country a lot more.
Here's something I realized after many travels: even one negative experience can make you hate a place a lot and never want to go back, while a good experience (often some nice people you meet on the way) can make you remember a place for a long time.
one meter國家 在 Gibson 吉神 Facebook 的精選貼文
[泰國] 只須100泰銖(約RM13),就可以看見很多罕見動物,還可以跟他們近距離接觸,所以來到考艾,一定要去Bonanza Exotic Zoo哦!更多詳情在 http://bit.ly/2pTvtcG
[Thailand] For only 100 Baht (around RM13), you get to see many exotic animals across the globe and get close to them. That’s why Bonanza Exotic Zoo is a must visit destination if you are to go to Khao Yai, Thailand. More detail at http://bit.ly/2qAtsOY
>>考艾是山城,所以這裡的大自然資源豐富,也非常適合動物棲身。所以來這裡,絕不能錯過動物園或農場,
>>Khao Yai is a town that is situated among mountains and forest, which is an ideal habitat for animal. This is also the reason why one of the most popular activity here is visiting farms and Zoos.
>>Bonanza異國動物園占地大約15依格,並建有一條700公尺的山路環繞著動物園,走一圈只須40分鐘,如果不想走,可以每人付50泰銖游車河,一圈20分鐘看完整個動物園。
>>Bonanza Exotic Zoo covered around 15 acres of hilly land. With 700-meter circular walkway through the, you just need 40 minutes to walkthrough the zoo. If you are too lazy to walk, you can pay 50 Baht per person to hop onto a buggy for a 20 minutes round trip.
>>這裡的罕見動物包括有常常被認錯是草泥馬的羊駝、馬達加斯加的環尾狐猴及小袋鼠等等。
>>Many exotic aminals can be found here, such as Alpaca, Lemur from Madagascar, Wallaby and etc.
>>大馬藝人尹匯雰與家人受邀參與family fun Thailand親子游,並連同其他5個國家的藝人一起推介這項旅游活動。
>>Malaysian celebrity Wan Wai Fun and her family is the ambassador among 6 other celebrities and their families from other countries for the family fun Thailand program that was launched recently.
#FamilyFunThailand #Thailand #tat #thaitourismauthoritytrip #familytrip #khaoyai #AmazingThailand #gibsonspg #Gibson吉神
one meter國家 在 林柏妤 Facebook 的最佳貼文
金門最終回,烈嶼大家有去過嗎?坑道跟堡壘好有趣呦👍🏻👍🏻 海灘也美翻惹❤️
#timefortaiwan
#kinmen
#nike
參加台灣觀巴金門的行程,不僅只有搭著車,還會帶你去坐船,到烈嶼鄉走走,因為它特殊的地理位置,留下大量的軍事防禦設備,成為必遊的觀光景點。
The Kinmen schedule with the Taiwan Tour bus isn’t just a bus ride you get to jump on a ferry to visit Lieyu township. A lot of military residue has been left here and have become tourist attractions.
2016-2017 Episode 13 Kinmen–Lieyu Township tour(2) 烈嶼鄉趴趴走(金門)
Transcript 影片文字稿:
歡迎來到台灣,我是林柏妤
Welcome to TAIWAN, I am Poyu Lin
我熱愛旅行,也喜歡在台灣趴趴走
I love to travel ,love wandering around in Taiwan
這是風雞,我要去風雞的故鄉,列嶼
This is a Wind Rooster, I going to the hometown of Wind Roosters ,Lieyu.
參加台灣觀巴金門的行程,不僅只有搭著車,還會帶你去坐船,到烈嶼鄉走走,因為它特殊的地理位置,留下大量的軍事防禦設備,成為必遊的觀光景點。
The Kinmen schedule with the Taiwan Tour bus isn’t just a bus ride you get to jump on a ferry to visit Lieyu township. A lot of military residue has been left here and have become tourist attractions.
從九宮碼頭走個幾分鐘,就是我現在所在的地點,九宮坑道,這個坑道總長790公尺,有著非常壯麗的景色
Only a few minutes walk from the Jiugong Pier is where I am now, the Jiugong Tunnel. This tunnel is 790 meter long and the view is spectacular!
開挖於1963年的九宮坑道,當年是為了避免補給船隻在裝卸貨物過程遭受敵軍炮火,因此在堅硬的花崗岩下開挖出這條「小艇坑道」,直到1998年移交金門國家公園規劃整理,在2001年對外開放
This tunnel was originally built in 1963 to protect previous cargo being damaged by the bombings. To build this tunnel they had to drill through hard granite so a small carrier could pass through. In 1998 the Kinmen National Park made renovations to the tunnels and has been open to the public since 2001.
參觀坑道戴著安全帽,是為了防範可能有落石,來這參觀還需注意潮汐時間,因為漲潮時會淹沒坑道,免得白跑一趟。
A helmet is required for visiting this tunnel because there might be some falling rocks. You also need to check the tide so that when you come visit it is not buried under the water.
有很多樣的方式在烈嶼旅行,還包含我最擅長的自行車
There are a lot of different options for transportation while visiting Lieyu, include my favorite bicycle.
全長18.3公里的環島自行車道,是過去的戰備道路
This 18.3km long roundabout cycle route was a frontier command back in the war years.
這條烈嶼環島自行車道,沿途景色綠意盎然,騎起來感覺還滿舒服的。
The Lieyu Huan Dao Path passes through a lot of greens and great township sceneries, a comfortable relaxing route.
此外 沿途還有許多戰地遺跡,像是碉堡 軍事防禦工事,以及精神標語等等,中途也可以選擇停下來,到碉堡內探險。
There are lots of military remains such as bunkers, military defense structures, and military banners. Around midway you should stop and explore one of the bunkers.
好刺激,穿過這地雷體驗區,讓人好像回到戰爭的感覺。
So exciting! Running through this mine stimulations feels like you are in the war.
勇士堡及鐵漢堡,建於1971年的,過去肩負烈嶼北方海上防禦,經過金門縣政府轉化再利用,成為如今地雷主題園區,進而把過去的戰地歷史,重現在旅客眼前
Brave Fortress and the Tie Han Fortress built in 1971 were shoulder to shoulder in protecting the North coast of Lieyu. The Kinmen Township government renovated these fortresses and turned them into the Mine Stimulation Area. Previously this was an area full of confusing tunnels and military equipment.
除了看軍事遺跡外,烈嶼的地質景觀也相當特別,像是貓公石濱海休憩區,就會讓你大呼驚奇
Other than Military debris, the view of the coast is also very special; the Mao Gong Shi Island Recreation Area for example, would make your jaw drop.
這些石頭的形狀,長得好奇特
These stones are wired shaped,so special.
是的,這個叫作「貓公石」 妳看這些坑坑洞洞,是長時間的受到沖刷,原本是有紅土包覆著,當中的紅土被潮汐沖走後,留下來的只剩複合金屬塊,這之中包含了,鐵、鋁、鈣、矽、這個就是貓公石形成的原因
Yes,it’s called Mao Gong stone. See all the pockets right, those are the wash away , the dirts red clay from the sediment overtime by the high tides and low tides. The remaining part are a metal composite which include iron, aluminum, calcium and silicones. So the pockets are the wash away and a big piece of metal remained.
來這邊旅行,如果往村莊裡逛,你還會看到不同造型的風雞,祂是烈嶼特有的民間信仰,用於陣風煞,保平安用。
Come here for a trip. If you stroll around the village, you will find different styles of wind roosters which are the locals’belief people harness to suppress strong winds and pray for safety.
這口井在300年前就有了,是當年鄭成功帶著軍隊,剛到這裡時所挖的,現在井裡面還能打水
This 300 hundred years old well was dug when Zheng Cheng Gong just arrived here with his army. Today you can still well water from here.
當我看見超過百年以上的古蹟,讓在此的時光旅行回到了更久遠的年代
When I see Historical Site that are over 100 years old. My time in history has just moved way back.
烈嶼是個令人感到夢幻的島嶼,宛若世外桃源一般,有機會你也可以來逛逛,我是林柏妤,享受在台灣的時光,我們下次見
Lieyu is a fantastic island and a well kept secret place in Taiwan. You must come when you have time. I am Poyu Lin, enjoy your time in Taiwan! Chow~see you next time.