我的「南漂青年」朋友們
My "northerner" friends in the south
(English edition after the Mandarin one)
最近幾次回到台灣,都有幾位南部的鄉親要我下去找他們。過去因為「人在台北」、「沒時間」等原因而不了了之,但這次大部分時間都待在嘉義,與高雄的距離終於近到無法拿來當藉口了,於是便安排在返台第三天南下,一天之內在屏東、高雄和三組不同人馬相聚(是說可以把所有人馬全部喬到同一天內而且無縫接軌也是個奇蹟呀XD)。值得一提的是,這些友人其實都不是高雄人,他們成長求學階段大多在北部,會來到高雄、屏東是為了工作;換句話說,他們就是不折不扣的「南漂青年」。
雖然說這趟下來主要是為了訪友,但既然來了就不會放過這個大好機會,直接觀光客模式全開,順道拜訪了近年完工的新建築如高雄車站、鐵路地下化、總圖書館、會展中心、哈瑪星鐵道文化園區,還有隔壁的屏東車站、六堆客家文化園區等。相較於過去我居住南部的時候,現在的高雄改變了不少,凡是台北有的公共建築、連鎖店、特色地景,高雄幾乎也都找得到,而且高雄的可能還比台北的更加新穎精緻(畢竟是比較近期才蓋的)——尤其把台北總圖和甫完工高雄總圖拿來一比,高下立判。
既然這個城市應有盡有,在這裡生活應該也不難吧?高雄是真的又_又_嗎?XD 我和南漂朋友們很自然的就聊到他們的生活。南漂朋友們告訴我,有些差異是他們來之前從未想到過的,這些差異絕對不是像「政府長期重北輕南」、「這裡比較多人騎機車、講台語」或者「吃得到丹丹漢堡」那麼簡單,反而是一些更深層的文化差異。例如,高雄的學生,特別是第一志願的,課業壓力比起北部可能有過之而無不及,火車站前那些補習班也就特別擅於操作學生這種焦慮心理,從升高一暑假就讓學生一路補上去;此外,未婚或選擇不婚的適婚年齡男女(特別是女性),在高雄的生存空間遠遠小於台北。這些差異都讓從事面對人群工作的他們必須調整策略。(以上純屬友人轉述,若有取樣誤差煩請正統的高雄人不要鞭太兇,謝謝 :) )
無論是北漂、南漂,或者像我這樣漂過太平洋到了美國之後又先西漂再東漂,在異鄉生活從來就不容易。或許這些挑戰在選舉期間可以被拿來當悲情牌帶動民氣,選舉完之後卻是每個人日常生活中每天得面對的課題,也不是任何一個政治人物能夠輕易改變的。
On the third day of my going-home trip, I visited the second largest city Kaohsiung, about 350km south of the capital Taipei, and its neighboring city Pingtung. While Taiwan is a tiny island, this north-south difference has been a lasting topic on this land, particularly among young adults, who often have to migrate from the south to the more developed north for work. The friends I visited this time, however, are those who moved to the south for their jobs.
Outwardly, Kaohsiung is as developed as Taipei, or even more developed -- many public facilities, shopping plazas and parks were built much more recently than their counterparts in Taipei. I visited Kaohisung Station, public library, exhibition center, railway heritage park, etc and was impressed by the architectural design. While the city seems as contemporary, vibrant as Taipei, my friends told me that there are still some cultural differences they have to deal with. They told me examples about the education system and local's view on singleness. Every city has its own unique culture, and there are challenges that one may not be aware of until moving here and fully settling down.
Whether moving north like most Taiwanese, moving south like my friends, or moving over the Pacific to the USA and between east and west coast like me, living in a new city is never easy, no matter how innovative, contemporary and vibrant the city is.
plazas in english 在 旅行熱炒店Podcast Facebook 的最佳貼文
本專頁隆重推出全新一期旅行+寫作+攝影企劃:《回家旅行》
Introducing my next travel + writing + photography project: SOJOURNER AT HOME!!!
(English introduction after Mandarin :) )
嘗試過幾次忠實紀錄路上所見的旅行之後,我找到了最適合我的寫作方式——邊走邊寫。但這和許多人沿路到處IG打卡的思維不太一樣。我的方法是,在時間與力氣許可的前提下,每天發佈一篇文章,針對當天的一到二個亮點、精華進行主題式(而非流水帳式)的分享;經歷過上次摩洛哥之行,這種一路寫作配合攝影的旅行方式已漸趨成熟。因此,我決定要用一樣的方式來走這趟回台灣的行程,也就是一路寫作。
說到這裡可能有人會好奇,回家就回家,有什麼好寫的?何況我的讀者大多是台灣朋友,這些人對台灣難道還不夠熟悉嗎?
之所以想要以「回家」為主軸進行關於家鄉的寫作,原因有兩個。首先,常讀我文章的人大概都知道,我很喜歡從生活中的一件小事、一樣東西或者一個小人物出發,去發掘這個人事物背後更大的文化脈絡和歷史背景;既然我可以這樣寫別人的事情,那當然更要這樣寫自己的事情了——我想利用這個回家的機會,把我的文化背景、老家、成長的地方當成寫作的題材;其次,我移居美國這八年多來台灣其實已經改變了不少,從具體可見的如捷運一條一條通車(甚至一度以為有生之年見不到的機場捷運都通了XD)、火車站一座一座變成購物商場,到文化層面上的如東南亞移民人數幾乎增加了一倍、改變了北部城市風貌等,這些改變讓我的「回家」也變得有點像是到一個新的地方去旅行,這些東西當然都是我不會放過的寫作題材。
最後來談談我大概會寫什麼。由於這趟超過一半的時間會待在嘉義,我會對於以前逢年過節才會回去的老家進行一些探索,暫定會談到一點家族文化背景、和我同鄉的一些名人,還有日本殖民統治對於當地生活的影響等;此外,台北的部分則會著重在移民地景以及一些被遺忘的城市角落。還不知道到時候實際可以寫多少,但我會盡力的orz。
連載明天(12/24)開始,歡迎大家在本臉書專頁發摟(當然我個人臉書上也還是看得到啦)。
After a few trips, I realized that the best way for me to write about my travel is to write while traveling. It's a bit different from checking in on IG all the time -- my strategy is, as long as my time and energy allow, writing one post everyday about 1-2 highlights of that day. I practiced this on my last trip to Morocco and it turned out well. Therefore, I decided to do the same thing on this trip back home!
You may wonder: come on, you're not going to a foreign country. You are going home! Why are you writing about your home? Aren't your Taiwanese friends familiar enough with your homeland?
There are two reasons for me. First, if you read my article frequently, you'd know that I always like to link an individual, an event or an object that I ran into in life with the much bigger cultural or historic context. If I'd do this for other people, why wouldn't I do that for myself? Especially on this trip, where I'll go to the place I'm from. Secondly, since I moved to the US 8 years ago, many things have changed. There are more visible ones, such as the opening of new subways, the conversion of train stations into shopping plazas, to more subtle ones, such as the increase of foreign population (almost doubled) and how exotic cultures are infused into the landscape. These changes make home a bit less familiar, which to be more or less feels like going to a new place.
Lastly, about what I'm going to write -- since I'll spend more time at the county where my parents are from (instead of the city I grew up), I'll explore a little bit of my family history, some well-known people from the area, and the influence of pre-WWII Japanese colonization on the current life. As for Taipei, where I grew up, I'll focus on how Southeast Asian immigrants have transformed the city, and some neglected corners in the city.
The series starts tomorrow. Feel free to follow on this page or on my wall!
plazas in english 在 葡萄牙自由行 Uma Volta em Portugal Facebook 的最佳解答
幾天前放上來的一篇小文不見了, 臉書仍然沒有替我跟進, 所以現在唯有再發布一次作為紀錄。已經閱讀過的朋友, 不好意思, 有興趣的話, 就當再多看一遍啦! :-)
(後加: 剛才再發現原來還有另外幾篇文章被臉書消失了!臉書何解會如此?還好我有備份)
The short article that I have posted on here is still missing and Facebook Help Centre still hasn't fixed the problem yet, so I decided to put it up again. For those who have already read it, sorry. You may read it again if you're interested.. :-)
(Added: Just found that in fact some other articles have been made disappeared as well! Gladly, I have back-ups.)
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Originally posted on Monday December 1.
原文在12月1日星期一發布
【葡萄牙聖誕蛋糕 ~~ 帝王蛋糕】【Portuguese Christmas Cakes ~~ Bolo Rei】
踏入12月, 聖誕氣氛越見濃厚, 很快又會到聖誕節! 在葡萄牙, 除了可以欣賞設計美麗、五顏六色又令人賞心悅目的街頭聖誕燈飾和巨型聖誕樹之外, 還有就是品嘗傳統蛋糕 ~~ 《帝王蛋糕》。《帝王蛋糕》無容置疑是葡萄牙聖誕節的的一大象徵。
December has arrived! Christmas is approaching, and the Christmas atmosphere is becoming stronger and stronger. In Portugal, in addition to enjoying the beautiful and colourful Christmas lights and decorations on the streets and the giant Christmas trees being placed in plazas, one other thing that all Portuguese people would include in celebrating the Christmas ~~ eating the traditional Portuguese cake called Bolo Rei (English: King cake).
傳統地, 葡萄牙人會在聖誕節 (12月25日) 到大約主顯節 (1月6日) 這段時間裡吃《帝王蛋糕》。《帝王蛋糕》其實源於法國, 在19世紀時引進來到葡萄牙。現在依舊在里斯本市中心營業的著名糕餅店 Confeitaria Nacional 就是於1829年首先將Bolo Rei 食譜引入葡萄牙 (Confeitaria Nacional 乃當時葡萄牙君王的御用糕餅店)。
Traditionally, the Bolo Rei is eaten around December 25th (Nativity) until January 6th (Epiphany or "Day of Kings"). The Bolo Rei recipe originated in France and arrived in Portugal during the 19th century. Confeitaria Nacional, which is still operating today in Lisbon city centre, is the first bakery which first introduced this recipe to the country in 1829. (At the time Confeitaria Nacional was the official bakery of the Portuguese monarchy).
帝王蛋糕的主要材料是軟麵團, 加入以葡萄牙砵酒浸泡的葡萄乾、果脯、各種堅果, 還有蠶豆, 搓揉成環形狀, 模擬成一個后冠, 上面放上結晶乾果, 然後烘焙 。烘焙後放涼再撒點糖霜在上面就可享用。
The major ingredients of a Bolo Rei are: a soft dough with raisins, candied and dried fruits, various nuts and fava beans that have all been soaked in port wine. The dough is shaped into a ring that resembles a crown. Put some crystallised fruits on top and then bake in the oven. Allow to cool completely and then dust some icing sugar on top for decoration.
今個月會去葡萄牙旅遊的朋友, 記緊要試試吃這個帝王蛋糕呀! :-)
Remember to try Bolo Rei if you're visiting Portugal this month! :-)