[News / 甜點新聞] 從 Jessica Préalpato 獲得 2019 年「全球最佳甜點主廚」談餐飲評鑑與名氣的兩面性 / Jessica Préalpato named the World's Best Pastry Chef by The World's 50 Best Restaurants (for English, click "see more")
日前「世界 50 最佳餐廳」評鑑選出 「2019 年世界最佳甜點主廚」，由目前 32 歲、擔任米其林三星餐廳 Alain Ducasse Plaza Athénée 甜點主廚的 Jessica Préalpato 獲得。Jessica 在巴黎甜點圈內雖有知名度，但離 Instagram 上動輒有數十萬、百萬追蹤者的明星甜點主廚仍有很大距離，她的甜點作品，由她自己的說法來說是「#不見得很美麗」、也跟一般人熟悉的甜點不太一樣。她「#不使用奶餡、#慕斯，#突出元素本身的酸味與苦味」，在她手中，「#糖只是用來調味」。
她本次獲獎，和過去幾屆得獎主如 Pierre Hermé、Dominique Ansel、Cédric Grolet 主廚「錦上添花」的模式完全不同，「世界 50 最佳」評鑑總監特地評論她的作品「#比起CédricGrolet主廚更加強調甜點的本質勝於外型」，究竟本次頒獎給 Jessica 主廚的特殊意義在哪？
本文同時揭露法國明星主廚 Cyril Lignac 即將在七月底關閉他的星級餐廳「Le Quinzième」，並公開表示自己「跟米其林評鑑玩完了」。#餐飲評鑑與社群媒體帶來的名氣究竟是祝福還是詛咒？請點下方連結看深度評論解析。
🎈內容精采節錄：
「寫到這裡，我不禁想探討餐飲評鑑能「立人」也能「毀人」的兩面性：一個自認為自己的甜點「沒那麼受歡迎」、「不美麗」，但是有著與主流不同的獨特哲學、堅持自己理念的主廚，因為世界50最佳餐廳的評鑑被更多人注意與肯定；也有的主廚自從被米其林評鑑給星之後變得無比焦慮，因為從此就必須承受被摘星的焦慮，也因為要符合遊戲規則，被侷限了自由發展的可能性。許多主廚在近年來公開反思餐飲評鑑的意義，也有主廚宣布不想再被評鑑，希望從此更自由地做自己想做的菜，如 2017 年宣布將三星歸還給米其林的 Sébastien Bras 主廚...」
Jessica Préalpato, the 32-year old female chef in charge of the pastry kitchen of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée was recently crowned as the World’s Best Pastry Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Jessica, though widely recognised, is far from a “celebrity chef” compared with her fellow chefs who are followed by hundreds of thousands, or even millions of people on Instagram. Her desserts, according to herself, are “not necessary beautiful” and could challenge the general concept of desserts. She “does not use creams, mousses” and “bring out the natural bitterness and acidity of ingredients”. For her, sugar, like salt to the cooks, is just for seasoning.
Her wining of the award means something quite different compared with previous winners, as Pierre Hermé, Dominique Ansel, and Cédric Grolet are all successful chefs enjoying international recognition before getting such a title. Hélène Pietrini, director of World’s 50 Best commented that Jessica’s work “highlights more on the fundamentals rather than the form than Cédric Grolet”. So what exactly it means accrediting the young female chef at this moment?
The current article also reveals that the famous French celebrity chef Cyril Lignac will be closing his starred restaurant Le Quinzième at the end of July and he “no longer wants to be in the rating system of the Micheline guide”. Is the fame brought by influential restaurant guides or social media a blessing or a poison to chefs? Are they struggling to meet strict standards and thus got limited to exercise freely their creativity or are they enjoying the privilege of cooking with high quality and rare ingredients and are actually allowed to work with unique philosophies? Click on the following link to read more (in Chinese).
Hotel Plaza Athenee Dorchester Collection Ducasse Paris
#yingspastryguide #paris #jessicaprealpato #alainducasse #plazaathénée #cyrillignac
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