關於 soil structure ，我們在網路上蒐集到這些相關的討論、資訊與評價

參加咗法國Chablis Premier Cru & Chablis Grand Cru 葡萄酒大師班，了解以100%Chardonnay葡萄釀造嘅白酒，味道跟其他產區截然不同，因為佢哋有獨特嘅由化石衍生嘅土壤 Kimmeridgean泥土，令葡萄帶特別嘅礦物氣息，配海鮮一流！試咗6款美酒，我最喜歡Chablis Grand Cru, Blanchot, 2017, Domaine Long-Depaquit ，優雅而帶白花香、白桃、檸檬、礦物等味道，十分有層次。有興趣嘅朋友可以係今日酒展嘅法國區到試試！Cheers!🥂🎉
Attended Chablis Premier Cru & Chablis Grand Cru masterclass & understand why this 100% Chardonnay wine tastes so different from other wine regions, cos of its climat & terroir r different, and its special Kimmeridgean soil brings signature minerality to the wine! It’s great match with seafood. Among the 6 wines that we tasted, I like Chablis Grand Cru, Blanchot, 2017, Domaine Long-Depaquit most. It’s elegant & with good structure , with white flowers, white peach, lemon & mineral notes. If u r interested to try, u can visit the French wine area to explore today at HKIWSF! Cheers!🎉🥂
#wine #winetasting #chablis #drinkchablis #chabliswine #bourgognewine #BIVB Bourgogne Wines #ccwinevoyage #詩詩酒樂園 #hkwinefair #hktdc #hkiwsf #hkiwsf2019

【Silver Oak & Twomey】

Silver Oak當然是很「加州」的酒款，今年受邀參加在韓國的美國農業部／美國乳品協會全球講師訓練時，這隻酒配上BellaVitano乳酪時十分合拍，得到一致的讚賞。

最近大家關心的是Kincade Fire，北加州一度陷入緊急狀態，還好目前已經被控制，居民也陸續回歸家園，但許多人的產業已經被燒毀，葡萄園的影響有限，大部份酒農已在九月第三週前結束採收。官方的說法是大火不影響2019年份的產量，事實上2019被視為是北加州的「經典年份」。儘管如此，Sonoma有185,000人被疏散。Kincade Fire摧毀了Field Stone和Soda Rock的建築物。Silver Oak的葡萄園有稍微受損，但主要建築與設備均未被波及。而極端氣候的影響出並非僅有火災的威脅，2018年曾因野火破產的太平洋燃電公司，在今年收成的高峰期間執行了一系列的電網關閉措施以預防火災，影響達二百萬人，這是加州史上最大規模的停電！釀酒廠面臨無電可用的窘局，沒有電就無法控制發酵的溫度，這對許多酒莊是極為致命的。

由一個家族建立的兩個酒莊，Silver Oak與Twomey有些不一樣的取向：Silver Oak重點在於卡本內與美國桶，酒質甜美深厚；Twomey則找尋較冷涼的地塊，以法國桶釀製冷涼的品種與風格。酒廠對於最終酒質的控制有幾個面向：好酒來自好品質的葡萄，如何控制葡萄藤活力是很重要的，酒廠使用高科技Sap Flow Monitor/Mapping Vigor儀器監測木質部的水份狀態與掃瞄Shoot的生長狀態，從而決定如何灌溉及其他葡萄園枝葉管理手段。另外Silver Oak有自己的製桶廠，對美國桶的研究當然比別人更深入，不同的Toast Level成就不同的風味，釀酒師Nate與桶匠的合作非常密切，為每年的採收預備適合的美國桶；並使用處理過的軟木塞預防TCA污染。

科技的引入不等於好酒，頂多可以說酒質的有一份品質的保證，但不保證酒汁風味與哲學體現，好酒仍然回歸感性層面，不過對品質的投資永遠不會白費，在對的方向努力一定會有回報。

[Twomey Sauvignon Blanc 2017]
Brillant fresh fruity and herbal aromas, good sustain on the nose, roundness on the palate, high refresh acidity gives the depth. A good example of Sauvignon Blanc.

[Twomey Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2016]
Twomey現今更加注意Pinot Noir在西岸的潛力。目前有九款Pinot Noir產品，但是產量太低買不到..............................
Pronounced, sweet spices, cinnamon, sunny, ripe red raspberry, some orange peel, floral, roast peanut. M intensity with M body, refresh M+ acidity balances with the texture, silky tannin, Typical CAL Pinot noir, high contain in alumni of the soil.

[Twomey Bien Nacido Pinot Noir 2015]
Pronounced, lead by toasty aromas, dark, gamey. Mouthful but elegant on palate, oak flavors support the texture, subtle, manhood, vivid in length.

[本日最喜歡 Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2014]
M intensity with aromas of milky, slightly leather, pungent spices, shy ripe black currant and pleasant herbaceous. Smooth M+ body with M acidity and M tannin, roundness in body, vibrant red and black fruits freshness, clean-through flavor-profiles within good integration, some bitterness gives the depth. elegant notes of Earl Gary in length.
釀酒總監Jean Claude自Petrus退休後自我請纓成為Twomey的釀酒師，這款酒當然不同於Pomerol，但是自有主張，釀酒師的強烈意念可以感覺得到。

[Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014]
Pronounced, complex in profiles but good in integration, coconut milk, some elegant meaty, almond, brown sugar. Full body with soft high tannin and M acidity, juicy on the palate with shinning spices notes, red fruits and coconut milk flavors in length, tobacco and raisins, subtle, fresh cedar notes support the concentration and depth.

[Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013]
M+ intensity aromas with pepperoni, red beans paste, milky, 叉燒包, fermented soybeans, pencil, cedar, slightly coconut milk. Mouthful full-body, M+ fresh acidity gives the depth, chewy texture, some black-tea tannin on the palate supports the structure, iron-flavors. Still young and high potential in further 20+ years aging.

延伸閱讀

暗夜降臨 北加州即將大停電一周80萬戶遭殃 https://udn.com/news/story/6813/4095199

軟木塞的Dry Soak Method http://www.spiritedbiz.com/taint-misbehavin-improving-tca-testing-methods-ensure-cork-quality/

感謝星坊邀請

[BORDEAUX CHATEAUX VISITS ]

Chateau Latour (1st Growth / 五大一級莊)

Latour是五大中唯一一家從2012年開始不做預購，個人覺得這個做法不是每家適合，但用在它們家是正確的。首先是不怕资金流的問題，背后有大財團支持真的不一样，它们不用趕箸去把每一年的酒賣掉去换取资金来支持之后一年的营运。另一目的是為了它的酒到了開始進入適飲期才釋放到市場。Latour的酒應該是五大中最硬口味最重的一家，太早喝未必能給用家最好的享受，到開始好喝時推出價格可以高一些而用家也可有更大的享受，雙赢局面。雖然短期內好像很被動，但這策略在長遠來説對於酒莊是有利的。
不得不提是這酒莊的土壤真的很特別，有很多大大小小的石頭在泥土裡，造成它們的酒帶有強大的酒体風格。

Chateau Latour is the only first growth started to stop their en premieur pre-sale since 2012. This is not suitable for many chateaux but I think it’s wise for Latour. With the backing of large conglomerate, liquidity is no longer a concern for a Chateau to ensure selling each year’s production for cash to support the following year’s production cost. Another important factor is the aim of the chateau to only release their wines to market when the vintage is starting to enter into their ‘ready to drink’ window. Wines of Ch. Latour is probably the most full body with heaviest structure out of all first growth wines, drinking too early might not be ideal for consumers. So releasing the wines only when the vintage is ready can price the wines higher while consumers can also have better enjoyment, this is undoubtedly a win win situation. Although it seems passive in the short run, it is beneficial to the chateau in the long run.
It’s important too to highlight the soil of the chateau. It’s one of, if not the most, stony gravel soil in Bordeaux, contributing to the unique full bodied characteristic of the chateau.

#tastesinlife #味道人生